Wine Trickery
Saturday, August 23rd, 2008Want to dine at one of Wine Spectator’s award winning restaurants? Good luck. It’s hard to get a table because there are no tables. Osteria L’Intrepido was given the magazine’s Award of Excellence in the August 2008 edition. There’s one small problem. The restaurant doesn’t exist.
Robin Goldstein, author of The Wine Trials, submitted an application along with the $250 fee and an imaginary wine list for consideration. The main wine list was comprised of wines that had scored well in the magazine’s rating system. Conversely, the reserve list was purposefully composed of wines that received poor reviews from the magazine.
How did he do it? Goldstein isn’t going into any details, but Wine Spectator says it called the phone number on multiple occasions only to receive a message. There were also reviews for Osteria L’Intrepido posted on Chowhound.com. Thomas Matthews, a representative for the magazine, said that the wine list submitted was worthy of the award if it had existed. He further went on to state that, “This act of malicious duplicity reminds us that no one is completely immune to fraud.” The magazine has removed the restaurant from its website.
Obviously, Goldstein’s hoax was developed to prove a point. On his website, he claims, “If Google, Chowhound, and a couple of unanswered phone calls suffice to verify not just the existence of a restaurant but also the authenticity of its wine list, then it’s not clear what role the critic is playing.” Turns out the Award of Excellence isn’t as prestigious as it seems. Two-thirds of the restaurants that apply receive the award. There are currently over 4000 recipients on the 2008 list. At $250 apiece, that translates to $1 million in revenue for the publication.


